These plants can only be shipped to residents in the states of South Carolina, Georgia, Florida; Also with a phytosanitary certificate, (add $50-), these can be shipped to Europe, Mexico, South America, Carribean and Canada. You only need one Phytosantary permit, even if you win multiple auctions from us.VFT 'Dente' has reduced 'eyelashes' and traps often reach over an inch wide on old specimens.
This is a growers or resellers quantity auction. You can pop these into 3 inch pots and sell them at yard sales, flea and farmers markets, on your website, and to other nurseries and make money right away.
These have been grown in 40% shade for the summer here in Florida to prevent them from burning in our low elevation and close proximity to the equator. In more northerly climates or higher elevations with perhaps more cloud cover or cooler temperatures, they could be grown in full sun all day year-round. Like all Venus Fly Traps, the coloration of the plants becomes more intense in full sun when the sun moves far away from where they are being grown. In part shade, the coloration of the plants becomes more green with pinkish or washed out color in the traps. Dente reaches a size of about 5-6 inches across after a couple of years. These plants are over 1 year old and well on their way to becoming real beauties
Requires a soil pH of about 4.5. We have experimented with numerous soil blends over the years. Pure (sterile) Canadian peat moss (Lambert brand if possible) seems to be a good base to start with. If you can find and afford (hahaha) European peat, that's really amazing stuff. Depending on your watering habits or irrigation system, some alterations to straight peat can be made. Cutting in perilite can be good if you water daily. However, too much perilite may mean your plants dry out if you leave town for the weekend, and that can be detrimental. Cutting in with straight sphagnum moss can be beneficial; it allows some air to reach the roots, as if they were growing naturally on a floating island in a bog. Sphagnum moss has a couple of other attributes: If you cut it up/ shred it, it can be used as a soil topdressing/mulch. Because of sphagnum moss's texture and density, it will transpire up much humidity around the plants, which they like mucho lotto. Another attribute of (fresh) sphagnum moss is it tends to kill of fungus. The third marvel is that it actually induces rooting; some liquid rooting stimulants, such as KLN, in another of our auctions, is partially derived from sphagnum extracts. We have also planted all the genus's of terrestrial North American carnivorous plants in just sphagnum moss alone and had good results. So your soil mix may be chosen in accordance with local availability and price.
Sphagnum Moss and Peat Moss are not the same thing as "Florida peat, or Peat Humus". These are, well, we're not exactly sure what they are comprised of; we've found everything from old newspapers to pig bones to carpeting and glass shards in bargain brand bags of that mess. Junkbrand filler soil products constitute death for these plants. 
Bright light, high humidity. Do not allow it to dry out all the way, nor keep it to wet. Best results with non-city-treated water. Use of pond water, well water, aquarium water, filtered city water, distilled water, is fine. Let the (metal) watering can sit near a radiator or in the sun for awhile; most cultivated plants respond to warm water, about 86-88 degrees the best. Watering them with cold water shocks them into Winter Mode. This is true of most plants. Just something handy to keep in mind.Fertilize sparingly! Easy to burn with the fertilizer! It needs some plant food regularly, just maybe not full strength. Instead of giving it a tablespoon of liquid fertilizer mixed in a gallon of water once a month, you might reduce that to ¼ tablespoon per gallon of water once a month, April thru October. We rotate fertilizers; sometimes we use weak fish emulsion at the beginning of summer, other kinds of fertilizer we use include Miracle Grow, Peters Orchid or African Violet food, Schultz's Drops, and Excel. Like the plants, we don't want to eat the same thing forever and ever either. During winter, most plants have a 'rest'. The plants are not actively growing; they are in stasis. Nap time. They may lose a few leaves but not to worry. They simply need a rest. Don't fertilize them or reduce the fertilizer quantity to reflect the shortening day lengths. When days start getting longer and warmer, and new growth signs are visible, then start to bring the fertilizing back up.Meat kills. If God didn't want us to eat animals, why did s/he make them out of meat? Sure, you probably heard a salesman tell someone to put meat in it. Meat is so readily available. How many ladies do you know that would go out and catch bugs for their plants? Them proper folks need to invest in a bag of candy. Bribe the neighbors precocious little Johnny to catch a couple of bugs for Audrey once a month and corrupt the lovely child with give young developing John some candy for the favor. 
Don't overfeed the girls. Stay away from mosquitoes and other people-biting bugs as a potential food source.  Human blood in their guts is high in nitrogen and (animal) protein which will cause the trap mechanisms to kick the bucket before their time. Any other kind of bugs will do as long as the bug reasonably fits inside the trap. Some leaf eating insects may try to eat their way out of the traps. Bugs with hopping and jumping leg-parts can damage the traps. Bugs which are fly-like. Small wings, little legs without significant armatures (spineless legs), and small wings are ideal. If the bugs are a bit active, stick them in the refrigerator or freezer for just a little bit to cool them off and slow them down. Bugs will be harmed by the writing of this article. Let's hope the humane society doesn't get a hold of this. Slow bugs can be gotten in the forceps and only take the time from the jar to the trap to warm up. You can wear rubber disposable surgical gloves and the white lab coat, to thoroughly convince any slightly innocent bystanders that you lost your other foothold on the edge of reality. Just stick that bug in the trap. Little hairs on the insides of the traps are the triggers. Let the trap snap shut. Release pressure on forceps while removing from the trap but be careful!: Don't let the forceps open the trap enough for the buggies to get away. 
Or else you can pull the wings off and stick em in there with your fangers.
   Many carnivorous plants tend to be slightly yellowish. Yellow is a strong attractant to numerous insect species. A yellowish plant indicates the plant may be weakened. As such, it would likely have fewer defenses against insect predators. Therefore, many plant-predatory insects are attracted to 'green' forms of Venus Fly Traps. 
Do not confuse this with the growers opinion that they substantially benefit from small/ minute doses of fertilizer products upon occassion.Avoid sticking your fingers in the traps, oh it's fun, do it now and then to stay in practice, it's not going to produce food for your table so you might as well go and poke it now and again. There are oils and residues on your fingers (and little Johnny's too) and these substances can cause harm to the traps. No nicotine, no smoking around them. Wash up before you play.